For the coolant "Y-pipe" we have to make two connections. The longer arm passes under the intake manifold throttle body to intercooler pipe coupler and connects to the middle of the coolant reservoir about 6 inches away on a fairly straight path. The tricky part here is the input on the reservoir is considerably larger then the Y pipe. The Y pipe can use a 5/16 ID hose while the reservoir needs 3/4. Thankfully there are some Chevy and other applications that use a preformed straight 3/4 to 5/16 hose of 6 inches or longer. I was able to get one for less then $10 at the local Advance Auto. Then all the remained was to cut down the reducer hose to the appropriate length
The short arm connects to the coolant crossover pipe at the front of the engine bay. Both ends of this connection are the same size; I used 5/16 straight heater hose to make this connection.
Some additional notes regarding clearance with intake manifold, intercooler pipe and coolant "Y-pipe". The fit of all of the components in this area is very tight, even slight changes in the type of clamp, clamp position, thickness of silicone couplers, brand of fitting used in Part 1 of creating the pipe and other factors play a significant role in having enough space for everything to fit. In the worst case scenarios you won't have enough space, propping up the throttle body side of the intake manifold and the inside edge of the intake manifold will not sit flush with the cylinder head. The gap here can often be difficult to see; you can get a decent idea by shining a bright flashlight into the fuel injector port of the intake manifold in a dark garage and see if any light leaks out the inside gap. Make sure to cover or install a spark plug to block that source of light.
If during the test fitting you have additional clearance between the hood and the highest point of the intake manifold I would recommend either using a 1/8" phenolic intake manifold spacer or 2 factory gaskets on each runner. This will give you a bit more height to clear your plumbing and will make subsequent removals/re-installations a lot less finicky.
For the turbo auxiliary coolant pump side all that is required is to cut a small amount off the factory 90* hose to make the slightly tighter bend to the new 10 push loc barb.
